Report 18 September 2019



Some information for this September, which has had good weather for mid and high mountain activities.


Lift closures:

    Charamillon and Autannes lifts (La Tour) open until 22/09

    Montenvers train running until 29/09

    Aiguille du Midi lift open until 03/11

    Bellevue lift and Mont Blanc Tramway open until 22/09

    Monte Bianco Skyway (Italy) open until 03/11

Alpine Huts closures:

    Cosmiques hut open until 28/09

    Plan de l'Aiguille hut open until 03/09

    Nid d'Aigle and Tête Rousse huts open until 22/09

    Goûter hut open until 29/09

    Conscrit hut open until 22/09


Vallée d'Aoste and Valais Hut closures:

    Cabane d'Orny open until 29/09

    Rifugio Torino open until 03/11

    Rifugio Chabod (Grand Paradis) open until 28/09

    Rifugio Guide del Cervino

    Rifugio Gnifetti (Monte Rosa) open until 06/10


Mid Mountain Hut closures:

    Loriaz hut open until 06/10

    Pierre à Bérard hut open until 25/09

    Lac Blanc hut open until 31/10

    Moëde Anterne hut open until 01/10

    Col de Balme hut open until 15/09

    Miage hut open until 30/09

    Varan hut open until 30/09

    Tré la Tête hut open until 20/10

    Nant Borrant hut open until 25/09

    Robert Blanc hut open until 21/09


Alpine Conditions:

Rock routes remain the main activity, with routes being climbed in the Argentière sector, the Leschaux sector (Aiguille de Leschaux, Petites Jorasses), the Envers des Aiguilles, the Aiguilles de Chamonix and the Géant sector (S faces of the Aiguille du Midi, Pointes Lachenal, Satellites du Tacul).

The winter room at the Albert 1er is now accessible.  The Aiguille du Tour, Tête Blanche and Petite Fourche remain feasible by their normal routes, as is the S ridge of the Purtscheller.

A party turned back while trying to cross the Charpoua glacier, (for the Drus traverse,) despite a full moon and checking out the way the evening before.  There are plenty of possibilities to find water near the hut.

In the Talèfre sector, the S ridge and normal route on the Moine are still being done.  The bergschrund for the Contamine, (E face) is well opened.  

The Moine Ridge on the Aiguille Verte was climbed in good conditions on 13/09, (an abseil needed to cross the bergschrund in descent.)

The Valley Blanche traverse can be done but the way is complicated, (end of season conditions!)

The traverses of the Pointes Lachenal, Aiguilles d'Entrèves, the Marbrées (abseil points re-equipped; 3x20m) and the Dent du Géant are being done.  No recent information for the Rochefort Arete, which does not look to be in condition. The Cosmiques Ridge is being climbed again, (potentially unstable, as are other sectors.)

A ramp, to the right of the fixed rope, allows the bergschrund on the Mont Blanc du Tacul normal route to be crossed easily. After this there is good track with steps up to the summit.  Take care; a portion of the serac overshadowing the track looks ready to collapse. Remember that falling seracs are an objective danger on this route, (as they are also on the Mont Maudit, for example.)

Experienced, well equipped alpinists, (2 ice axes, ice screws etc,) could attempt the 3 Monts route.  The Col du Mont Maudit is bare ice but there are no special problems for the traverse to the col de la Brenva or on the Mur de la Côte.

Conditions are also OK for the Mont Blanc normal route, (by the Goûter.) However, it is necessary to be aware of the crevasses between the hut and the Dôme du Goûter (especially while descending when there is a temptation to take “short cuts”,) and on the  Bosses ridge.

A few parties are still doing the Bionnassay traverse. It is more technically difficult than usual, (the initial rock buttress is very dry, there is ice below the summit and the ridge is very thin with ice showing through in places. However, there is no cornice.)

The Dômes de Miage are not in condition, parties are generally stopping at the col.

For the Grand Paradiso (via Chabod), the Laveciau glacier is chaotic, with numerous crevasses.  There are 2 ladders in place and there are some ”jumps” to make.

Conditions are good for the Matterhorn by the Lion Ridge, (the hut is closed on the Swiss side).


Report 09 September 2019



A quick update after the weekend of rain and snow

For the hikers: There is snow starting at 2000m.  The paths have a light covering which will gently disappear.  The hunting season has started.  There is no hunting allowed on Wednesdays and Fridays, (except bank holidays.)

For the climbers: The Aiguilles de Chamonix are plastered and feeling very cold. Patience is needed for the rock to dry.  Likewise, for the Aiguilles Rouges, though the climbs here should come back into condition more quickly.

For the alpinists:
This morning, Monday the following was reported : 10 cm with a little bit of wind at the  Albert 1er hut (the telephone is working again),), 20 cm at the Envers des Aiguilles hut, 30 cm at the Cosmiques hut with a W wind and -10°C this morning, 15/20 cm at the Goûter hut, the snow is down to the Tête Rousse, 15 cm  at the Conscrits hut with not much wind.  

The following closing dates have been announced:
The lifts at Le Tour close on 22/09, the Leschaux hut closes on 15/09, the Requin hut closes on 12/09, the Envers des Aiguilles hut closes on 14/09, the Conscrits hut closes on 22/09 and the Cosmiques hut closes on 28/09. The Mottets cafe closes on 28/09.


Report 29th August 2019


The update for the end of August. 

The conditions have not changed much recently.


Tour Sector

The Aiguille du Tour is still being done but the conditions are very dry and not suitable for beginners.  The Col Supérieur du Tour is not recommended, the Col du Tour being the preferred option. The normal routes on the Tête Blanche and the Petite Fourche remain feasible.

Argentière Sector

The Argentière hut and the Plan Joran lift close on the 31st August.  This means a long approach to the beautiful granite climbs in this sector.

Charpoua Sector

The hut here also closes on the 31st August, (the warden has left some gas.)  The glacier (for the Drus traverse, Contamine route) is becoming more and more complicated. In descent, the parties do not pass back behind the Gros Rognon to join the ascent track.

Talèfre Sector

All the bergschrunds here are starting to open up and are becoming more awkward.   Some ingenuity is needed, especially for the Contamine route on the Moine. 
For the Moine Ridge on the Verte, the bergschrund goes on the true left.  

Leschaux Sector

Latest information here: ici 

Envers des Aiguilles Sector

No major problems for the approaches to the Tour Rouge, Tour Verte, Nantillons and Aiguille de Roc.
For the normal route on the République, please see the previous updates.

Subtilités Dulfériennes has become more awkward, one needs to descend into the bergschrund to reach the ramp.

Aiguille du Midi Sector

The Three Monts route remains possible for experienced alpinists.

Pointes Lachenal traverse: the snow last week has stuck to the ice, making conditions temporarily better.

The traverse of the Valléé Blanche is still being done but route finding through the crevasses is difficult.

It is still possible to cross the bergschrunds below the climbs in this sector: (Aiguille du Midi - Pointe Lachenal - Satellites).

Mont Blanc by the Gouter

The conditions are normal and OK.  The Grand Couloir and the way up to the hut are dry but the stonefall is no worse than usual. There is no ice on the ridge.

Miage - Bionnassay Sector 

The conditions remain technically difficult, (ice, crevasses,) for the Domes de Miage, there and back, from the Col des Dômes.

The Aiguille de la Bérangère, there and back from the hut, is completely dry.  

The traverse across to the Durier hut is very dry, with holds coming away in your hand.  It is best to reach the hut via the Plan Glacier.  The glacier is still OK in the upper part, (pass below the red marker,) providing that it is early in the day.

The traverse of the Bionnassay remains feasible. The passage before the buttress is awkward, (very dry). There is some ice just below the summit, (which is bypassed on the left,) and at the start of the NE ridge, (good crampon technique needed).

Helbronner Sector

The main activity here is the traverse of the Aiguilles d'Entrèves.

The approach to the Salle Manger, (Dent du Geant) remains very dry.  Take care to stick to the route and be aware of other parties.

Traverse and normal route on the Grandes Jorasses

It is end of season conditions for the Rochefort Arete (ice, gravel). The traverse of the Grandes Jorasses is feasible, (given that the Pointe Young is done in the afternoon.)

It is over for the normal route this summer.  The conditions have got a lot worse.


Report 22 August 2019


30cms of snow fell at the Aig du Midi during the bad weather on Tuesday, with fresh snow down to 3500m.

The snow fall, together with the strong winds, has formed some weak snow bridges making certain crevasses treacherous.

Concerning the snow or mixed routes, the new snow has concealed some of the problems caused by the ice or rock exposed by the dry conditions.  However, it has improved the situation for some passages, albeit only temporarily.

Concerning the rock routes at altitude, the rock may be snow plastered, (with snow/ice in the cracks,) or verglaced. The foreseen rise in temperatures will rapidly dry the routes, depending upon orientation.  The south facing routes are already being done

The 2 routes up Mont Blanc, via the Gouter and the 3 Monts, have been re-tracked, as has the Aig de Bionnassay traverse.

Report 16 August 2019


A quick update for the weekend.  There has been little change since the last update. Given that with the temperatures are now typical for the time of year and there is good re-freezing at night, the conditions have remained stable.  

Aiguille du Tour sector:  the Col Supérieur du Tour is still passable. It has been reported that he fixed rope here is badly damaged and should not be used.

The Drus traverse remains feasible.  Some parties went for the Aiguille Verte by the Moine Ridge today, (Friday) but no feedback yet on conditions and especially for the bergschrund, (more info Saturday !!!)

For the Leschaux sector: " the approaches to the Aiguille de Leschaux and the Petites Jorasses are in good condition.  There have not been any parties on the Grandes Jorasses for 10 days.  There is snow on the face above about 3800m....".

The Three Monts route up Mont Blanc remains committing and technical with, as usual, sections exposed to serac fall.   The Tacul bergschrund is awkward, there is ice on Col du Mont Maudit, and icy snow on the Mur de la Côte.

The crevasses on the Miage glacier, (approach to the Durier from Plan Glacier,) are opening up but passable if there is a good freeze.  The recent snowfall has improved conditions for the Bionnassay traverse. There is no longer any ice below the summit or on the ridge, (which remains narrow and airy).

The Trè la Tête glacier has lots of crevasses but is still OK.  On the Miage, the majority of the parties are stopping at the Col des Dômes. The slope up to the 3rd Dôme is ice and there is ice between this and the 2nd Dôme.  The Col de la Bérangère is no longer feasible.

The Gonella hut closes this weekend. The conditions have deteriorated. There are lots of crevasses open on the glacier, with ice and stonefall below the Col des Aiguilles Grises.

Monzino sector: there has been no improvement at altitude. A via ferrata has recently been constructed at the level of the Col Chasseur. It provides a link between the Monzino hut and the Borelli bivouac, giving a pleasant 2 day tour. (Information in Italian here: )  As well as the usual via ferrata equipment, ice axe and crampons are also advisable.

For the Aiguilles Marbrées traverse, there has been a rockfall in the sector of the descent. It is now probably best done there and back from the Col de Rochefort.

Ice has been reported for the Vierge / Petit Flambeau.

Ice is beginning to appear on the Rochefort Ridge. There are still some parties doing the Jorasses traverse.  (The OHM route book has recent info, cahier de courses).

Report 8th August 2019


ThTThThe first update fror August

The first update for this August.  There has been little change for the high mountain since the last report of 31st July.

During the bad weather on Wednesday, it rained up to 4000m, with just a little snow settling above that. For several years now, rain at this altitude is no longer considered to be exceptional.

The rocks will dry quickly but there is little hope that the snow or mixed routes will come into condition. Be aware of the risk of verglas on the northern faces or on certain snow slopes.

Care is also needed with the choice of routes.  A passage of warm weather, with the isotherm around 4500m and strong winds, is forecast for Friday and Saturday.


Tour Sector

The Col Supérieur du Tour is still feasible, (avoid the ice which has several unstable boulders on it.)  The bergschrund on the normal route for the Aiguille du Tour can still be crossed.  Parties are still doing the Tête Blanche and the Petite Fourche. The Table Ridge remains feasible, (care needed between the lower part of the gully and the ridge.)

Argentière Sector

The Glacier du Milieu is no longer practicable in ascent (ice).  It is possible for experienced parties to descend it, e.g. from the Jardin Ridge. (This involves abseilling a combination of two routes bolted in 2018, "Par des Anges" then "Spigolo": chain belays, 50m abseils.) More information at the hut.

Nothing special to report for the rock routes.

Charpoua Sector

The traverse of the Drus remains in condition.  It is strongly recommended to check out the glacier approach the evening before.

Talèfre Sector

The information below is taken directly from the hut’s Facebook page.

"Concerning the rock routes, conditions are good. The bergschrunds are beginning to open slightly but remain OK for the Moine, Nonne, l'Evêque and the Point de Pierre à Joseph.

The Moine Ridge on the Verte is still being done. However, the bergschrund is widening.  The lower part is dry but there is still snow on the ridge.

Nobody has done the Droites recently. The S face and the diagonal gully are very dry.

There is still snow up to the Col des Droites to reach the Courtes, despite a lot of snow sluffs off the Droites S face.  Nobody is doing the traverse of the Courtes for the moment, the ridge after the summit is dry.  Snow remains on the descent from the Col des Cristaux.

The Pointe Isabelle is still feasible though the bergschrund before the ridge is now quite wide.  Some ice is starting to show through before arriving at the summit plateau.”


Leschaux Sector

There was a major rock fall on 4/8 on the lower part of the Walker Spur, Cassin Route, (Rebuffat Diedre.) With the verglas and the small amount of fresh snow, it would be wise to avoid this route for the moment.  

The rock routes should dry very quickly.

Envers des Aiguilles

Here also there has been little change.  The direct start to California Dream is no longer feasible. One needs to start by a ramp on the right.

For the descent from the Grepon, it is best to abseil down the West face, (from the "CP") then cross the glacier to the rognon.

Plan de l'Aiguille

Crampons are advisable for the snow on the approach to the Contamine Vaucher (Gendarme Rouge du Peigne). They can also be useful to reach the normal route on the Peigne (and the Minettes Spur), where despite a good track, the icy snow in the morning can be awkward.  

Aiguille du Midi Sector

It rained all day and night at the hut, (Wednesday).  Be aware of verglaced snow on the faces!

The Trois Monts route is, therefore, awkward and much more technical than usual.  The Tacul bergschrund is overhanging and strenuous, (3m; 2 technical ice axes useful.) The same is true for the Col du Mont Maudit, (some ice, the fixed ropes are frozen into the snow/ice and not usable.)

The seracs, (Tacul summit and the lower part of Mont Maudit,) are still there!

No reports about the bergschrunds for the rock routes, (S Face of the Aiguille du Midi, Pointes Lachenal etc).  No news is good news?  


Mont Blanc by the Grands Mulets.

The hut is closed for the season. It opens again in Spring 2020.


Mont Blanc by the Aiguille du Goûter

The route has been affected by the recent rain and snow mix. The amount of fresh snow is negligible. The summit was re-tracked on Thursday.  The rain, together with the wind, has coated the snow with ice.  Good cramponning skills are essential.

Conditions are typical for the time of year: The Grand Couloir is dry, (the stonefall no worse than usual) The Bosses ridge is in good condition.


Miage / Bionnassay Sector

The Mont Tondu is still being done, weaving between the ice sections, even though it does not look that attractive.

The Dômes de Miage, there and back, remains feasible, though the ridge appears to be coming more awkward, (narrow and icy.)

Aiguille de la Bérangère, there and back: nothing special to report, there is still some snow at the foot, otherwise completely dry.

The warden is going back up to the Durier hut today, (Thursday.) There should be a report soon for the Aiguille de Bionnassay assuming a break in the wind allows the parties foreseen for tomorrow, (Friday) to summit.


Mont Blanc by the Aiguilles Grises

Little change, the glacier is OK but the exit on the ridge is awkward.


Monzino / Helbronner / Grandes Jorasses

Little change since the last update.

The Tacul bergschrund is awkward.

The Traverse of the Jorasses: Be aware of verglas (especially at the Pointe Young).  It is perhaps better to not stop at the Canzio but to climb this section in the afternoon and then bivvy on the summit of the Pointe Margherite.

The recent rock fall under the Canzio has not affected the belays. However, there is a risk of stone fall. This abseil line should only be used in emergency.

Grande Jorasses normal route: some crevasses have opened below the Reposoir. The bergschrund above is open but can be crossed.  There is no ice on the route. Take care on the final summit slope, it is not steep, but rock is rotten.