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Lectures & Events 2013
Northern lectures South-West lectures
For details of meets in the UK and abroad click here.
For lists of previous lectures and special events see Archives at the foot of this page.
LONDON LECTURES AND EVENTS
2013
Tuesday 8 January. Matt Traver: Kangertittivatsiaq, East Greenland - A Journey into the Unexpected
An account of his 2012 expedition which made three first ascents and three attempts in the previously unclimbed Mythic Cirque of East Greenland.
Tuesday 22 January. George Cave: 2012 Russian Altai Expedition
In August this young team made their first unsupported expedition to the greater ranges when they visited the South Chuyski Range of the Russian Altai. Climbing as two ropes of two over 9 climbing days they successfully climbed Irbitstu (3,967m) by both its SW slopes and the more challenging N Ridge, Dzhaniktu (3,942m) via a 12 hour north to south traverse and made ascents of two other 3,700m peaks.
Tuesday 12 February . Dave Farrow: First ascents in the Kyrgyz Ala-Too by the Cambridge Tien Shan Expedition
Last summer, an 8-strong expedition from Cambridge went to explore some unclimbed peaks in the Kyrgyz Range of the Tien Shan mountains. The expedition, supported by the AC Climbing Fund, was a great success, gaining the first ascents of six 4000m peaks, and exploring a rarely visited valley, just 4 hours from the Kyrgyz capital.
Tuesday 26 February 2013. Catherine Moorehead: 'The Spine of the Thunder Dragon - a West-east Traverse of Bhutan'.
Catherine describes a crossing of Bhutan, from a fly-past of Kanchenjunga via the cliff-face Tiger's Nest lamasery to the capital, Thimphu. A trek follows through rarely-visted country in Central Bhutan up to the Chinese Border, en route for the World's highest unclimbed peak, Gangkhar Puensum, before moving to 'off-limits' country in Eastern Bhutan then descending to Guwahati on the Brahmaputra and returning to Calcutta on a 24-hour rail journey through Assam and West Bengal.
Tuesday 12 March. Ed Webster: First Ascents - From Super Crack to Everest
In this talk Ed will cover his most well-known first ascents and new routes; in New Hampshire with Henry Barber, in Colorado's Black Canyon with Layton Kor, in the Canyonlands of Utah - particularly the 1976 first ascent of Super Crack in Indian Creek Canyon, and of the Primrose Dihedrals on Moses Tower. He will then move on to snow and ice and altitude to cover his new route, Webster's Solo, up the East Face of Changtse in Tibet and climax with his first ascent of the Neverest Buttress up Everest's Kangshung East Face with Stephen Venables & Team in 1988 to provide an Everest teaser before the RGS show 2 nights later.
Tuesday 26 March. Colin Beechey: Further Adventures on classic Alpine routes
Colin has been climbing for over half a century, but due to work and family commitments has only taken short Alpine holidays, of 2 weeks duration or less. Following on from his talk last year, Colin will describe a further selection of favourite classic alpine routes, some popular and some less well known, mainly in the AD to D grades, achievable by any competent alpinist. Hopefully the slides will show that even in a short holiday a lot can be achieved with a combination of good luck and keen climbing partners. The talk will include The Bietschhorn, Briethorn Triftigrat, Liskamm to Dufourspitze traverse, NE face of Kingspitze, Salbitschijen S ridge, Taschorn Kin face, Lauteraarhorn, Aig Dorees traverse, Nadelgrat traverse.
Tuesday 9 April. Barbara Swindin: Just Beyond Her Reach - A Personal and Historical Perspective on British Women Climbing all the Alpine 4000m Peaks
Barbara will be talking about some of her most interesting experiences climbing in the Alps between 1970 and 1995. Back in 1979, she still considered herself to be a “Perpetual Second”, and will compare her own exploits with those of some of her eminent British female predecessors from the Victorian era onwards. By the end of 1990, Barbara had climbed most of the major summits and was on the brink of becoming the first British woman to complete the List of 4000m Peaks, but then fate intervened. She traces the development of her Alpine climbing skills, addresses some of the issues particularly concerning women climbers, and tells the tale of her final climbs in her book, “All But One”, signed copies of which will be available on the evening.
Tuesday 23 April. Boris Korzh: Imperial College Alaska Expedition
During the Summer of 2012 four members of Imperial College spent 31 days in the Saint-Elias mountain range in Alaska, undertaking ski mountaineering and alpine climbing in a seldom visited area. Thanks to the length of the expedition, even the bad weather did not last long enough to hinder the success of the climbing. The team was able to explore the area extensively, moving base camp on several occasions. 13 different summits were reached, with the majority being either first ascents or new routes, in the range of PD to D. The highest point reached was Siri Peak (12,109 ft), via a new route, which is the highest mountain in the area.
Tuesday 14 May. Peter Graham & Malcolm Scott: The Grand Cappuccino
Last summer Peter Graham and Malcolm Scott travelled to the remote Waddington Range in British Columbia in the hope of climbing a new line on The Incisor on Mt Combatant, but the ever-fickle glaciers of the area made the approach unjustifiably dangerous. Luckily they found an equally fine objective in making the second ascent of the Grand Cappuccino via a new route on its stunning south west face. The team was supported by the AC Climbing Fund.
Wednesday 22 May. Amit Chowdhury:
Climbing in Lesser Known Areas in the Indian Himalaya
Most climbers don't realise that nearly 1100 Km of the total length of the Himalaya is in Indian territory. There are hundreds of peaks, many of them very beautiful and very challenging, that remain un-climbed and unexplored. Access to several areas is difficult but over the years has become easier than is believed. Climbers from the UK have a special reason to be in the Indian Himalaya as most of the early exploration was done by British climbers like Younghusband, Longstaff, Smythe, Shipton and Tilman. In this talk Amit, who is the Honorary Secretary of the Indian Mountaineering Federation, would like to share his insights from his own climbing in some of these lesser known areas and some suggestions to enable British climbing and exploration in the Indian Himalaya.
Thursday 30 May. Mazeno Ridge of Nanga Parbat
Last summer Rick Allen and Sandy Allan made the first ascent of Nanga Parbat via the 6 mile Mazeno Ridge. They then descended the Diamir Face, making the first complete traverse of the mountain. Their climb was a massive commitment, taking 14 days to complete the ascent, and a further 4 to descend. It is one of the most notable Himalayan ascents in recent years, and for which the pair were recently awarded the Piolet d'Or. Rick's story will be well worth hearing.
Tuesday 11 June. Hywel Lloyd: Everest 60 Year Anniversary-
The story of the nine Everest expeditions leading to the successful ascent in 1953.
In this talk, which accompanies a small exhibition of photographs, archives and artefacts relating the history of the nine Everest Expeditions from 1921 onwards (all sponsored by the AC & RGS), Hywel will concentrate on those expeditions that led up to - and included - the successful ascent in 1953.
Tuesday 25 June. Pam Holt: New Routing in the Cordillera Apolobamba, Bolivia
Recipients of the Alison Chadwick Memorial fund and the MEF, Pamela Holt and Dr. Christine Pattison attempted a new route on Cololo 19,500ft ( 5961m) in the remote Cordillera Apolobamba of Bolivia in 1986. Pamela completed a traverse of the mountain in 1989 with Bath University, visiting the area again a few years later with a Leeds group climbing peaks which had not seen a British ascent. The lecture will give an account of the difficulties encountered, the unexpected outcome and plant collecting undertaken on behalf of the Royal Botanic Gardens Kew.
Tuesday 9 July. Ian Howell: The Great Rift - Eastern African Mountains
Ian has spent a number of years working in Eastern Africa where he pioneered many new routes on the region's major mountains. In this talk he will be describing some of the geology of the Rift Valley system in addition to revealing some of the classic climbs that are on offer.
Tuesday 23 July. Derek Buckle: In the Shadow of the Elephant
Derek will be talking about the 2012 AC Expedition to the Indian Himalaya where the team explored the upper reaches of the Semartoli Valley in the Kagbhusandi region of the Garhwal. During their time in the valley the team succeeded in making first ascents of four 5,000m peaks in an impressive cirque dominated by the massive Hathi Parvat, 6,727m, before completing a circular trek back to Joshimath via the well-known Kankul Pass.
Tuesday 10 September. Mick Fowler: Shiva
Mick will be talking about his recent expedition to Shiva. Details to follow.
Tuesday 8 October. Leslie Ayres: Passages from Stonefields
Leslie is an artist and guide living in Norway. An exhibition of his work will open at the AC on the day of his lecture, which will cover semi philosophical anecdotes about nature and our relationship with climbing, risk-taking, art and much more. It promises to be a varied and intriguing evening.
Tuesday 22 October. Phil Wickens.: 2013 AC Antarctica Expedition
During January 2013 seven Alpine Club members sailed to the Antarctic Peninsula on board the yacht Spirit of Sydney. From two inland camps on the Belgica Glacier various members of the team made five significant first ascents. The party also made the first ascent of Lancaster Hill east and west summits from the Troos Glacier and was fortunate to encounter various species of whales, penguins and other animals at remarkably close quarters. As usual with talks by Phil, this promises to be a photographic extravaganza.
Tuesday 12 November. Dennis Gray: An Evening of Mountain Poetry
After presenting a historical introduction Dennis will be inviting some of the AC regulars to read their favourite poem. Finally during a break some short excerpts from the CD Wanderlust, that he and Paul Cherry produced as a charity Disc for the MEF will be played. This CD was made up of many different tracks by 15 different climber/singer/musicians. This promises to be yet another evening with a difference.
Tuesday 26 November 2013. Knut Toensberg: Ski Mountaineering among the Trolls
Our Norwegian member, K. I. Toensberg will show us some pictures and talk about ski mountaineering in the western part of Jotunheimen, the Norwegian mountain area or home of the trolls. Included are some new routes, some new and not yet climbed ones as well as classic mountain traverses with skis, crampons and ice-axe. He will also include a handful of his father's and grandfather's photos from the same area, some shown at an Alpine Club exhibition in the 1920s.
Both General and Informal meetings at the club house in Charlotte Road start at 7:30pm, with the bar opening from 6pm. The library is usually staffed by volunteers between 5pm and 7pm. |
Occasional informal meetings provide a good opportunity for members to meet one another, and exchange news, views and information. New members and prospective members are particularly welcome. Prospective members are asked to contact the Administrator before attending. |
The London lecture organiser is Derek Buckle. Please contact Derek if you are interested in giving a lecture. |
NORTHERN LECTURES & EVENTS
2013
Wednesday 16th January. Rick Graham, Amanda Beddows & Ed Douglas: Three views of Nepal
The variety of objectives and approaches to climbing in Nepal is considerable. The evening features three short lectures on expeditions across the length of the country undertaken in 2012. Rick Graham describes the CC successful expedition to Kyajo Ri in Khumbu, Amanda Beddows reports on climbing Langshisha Ri in Langtang, and Ed Douglas describes a mountain exploration trip to the previously unvisited Gorakh Himal in Humla
Wednesday 13th February - Paul Ramsden: Shiva’s Prow
Paul will be talking about the extraordinary ascent of the stunning northeast ridge of Shiva in the Pangi region of Himachal Pradesh, India. Climbing with AC President Mick Fowler, they took seven days to reach the summit via one of the most striking lines to be climbed in recent years on ground that was both technically demanding and serious.
Wednesday 13th March - Damien Gildea: Climbing in Antarctica
Damien will focus on his own trips to Antarctica as well as historic expeditions over the years.
Lectures resume in the Autumn
NORTHERN LECTURE VENUE: 'Outside Cafe', Hathersage, Derbyshire on Wednesdays at 7.30pm
Anyone who has had an interesting trip and would be prepared to lecture is invited to contact Edward Douglas. |
SOUTH-WEST LECTURES & EVENTS
2013
Thursday 10th January: Alan Freke - Frank Tuckett Memorial lecture
At the Frenchay Quakers' Meeting House, Bristol BS16 1NT
Alan Freke, Secretary of the Frenchay Tuckett Society, will give this lecture to commemorate the centenary of the death of local AC Vice-President Frank Tuckett, contemporary of Whymper. In conjunction with this lecture, the AC is collaborating with the Society to organize an exhibition of Tuckett memorabilia and the AC archive at the Frenchay Village Museum from January - March.
All AC members and guests are welcome. There is no entry charge, but non-AC members are asked to confirm by email to Tony Westcott prior to the event and may like to make a donation of £5 to the Mountain Everest Foundation.
Tuesday 19th February: Mike Pinney - Khumbu-Kyajo Ri - a first visit to Nepal
An account of a Climbers' Club trip to one of Nepal’s ‘A’ list trekking peaks, in Mahalangur area – west of Namche Bazaar. The group without support above base camp attempted the voie normale which (depending on which website you look at) is given AD+ to D+.
Tuesday 19th March: Peter Berg – A presentation of Edward Whymper’s lantern slides of ‘Scrambles in the Alps’
At the Stapleton and Begbrook Community Centre, Frenchay Park Road, Bristol BS16 1HY
Edward Whymper was a contemporary of AC Vice-President Frank Tuckett, being elected to membership of the Alpine Club in 1861 at the age of twenty-one. Frank was Whymper's elder by six years and he was described by Whymper in his book Scrambles amongst the Alps as 'that mighty mountaineer, whose name is known throughout the length and breadth of the Alps'. Whymper began giving lectures on his climbing exploits in 1863, starting with his first ascent of Mont Pelvoux in the Dauphiné, followed by the Aiguille Verte, Greenland and the Andes over the next two decades. His lantern slide lecture was first presented in Davos in 1896. The 93 lantern slides were not just a record of climbing achievements throughout the Zermatt and Mont Blanc region for mountaineers. Whymper aimed to entertain a much wider audience with stunning pictures of alpine landscapes, interlaced with a carefully crafted text, providing insights of the people and their culture. Whymper died one year before Tuckett in 1912.
Peter Berg has drawn on Whymper's own writings to reconstruct the lecture, using the original slides gifted to the Alpine Club in 1945. Signed copies of his book of the slides will be available to buy.
All AC members and guests are welcome. There is no entry charge, but non-AC members are asked to confirm by email to Tony Westcott prior to the event and may like to make a donation of £5 to the Mountain Everest Foundation.
Tuesday 16th April: Steve Berry – Straight up : Himalayan Tales of the Unexpected
Steve is MD of Mountain Kingdoms, the first UK trekking agency to guide Everest. He has taken part in nine mountaineering adventures to the Himalaya and has now completed some 60 treks in Nepal, Bhutan, Tibet, and various other parts of the Himalaya. Expect tales of tales of encounters with bears, escapes from avalanches, summit successes and failures, love stories, mystical connections, Himalayan storms, near death accidents, raw travel across the Indian sub continent, and grapples with bureaucracy in this lecture based on his recent second book. Signed copies will be available to buy.
Friday 26 April: Hywel Lloyd – Treasures of the Alpine Club
The history behind many of the items on display at the exhibition in the Frenchay Village Museum comemorating the centenary of the death of Francis Tuckett (1834-1913), a Frenchay Man, and accomplished mountaineer with many first ascents during the 'Golden Age' of Alpinism, - Vice-President of the Alpine Club 1866-68.
Venue: Quaker Meeting House, Beckspool Road, Frenchay BS16 1NT.
Friday 17 May: Amit Chowdhury - Climbing in Lesser Known Areas in the Indian Himalaya
Most climbers don't realise that nearly 1100 Km of the total length of the Himalaya is in Indian territory. There are hundreds of peaks, many of them very beautiful and very challenging, that remain un-climbed and unexplored. Access to several areas is difficult but over the years has become easier than is believed. Climbers from the UK have a special reason to be in the Indian Himalaya as most of the early exploration was done by British climbers like Younghusband, Longstaff, Smythe, Shipton and Tilman. In this talk Amit, who is the Honorary Secretary of the Indian Mountaineering Federation, would like to share his insights from his own climbing in some of these lesser known areas and some suggestions to enable British climbing and exploration in the Indian Himalaya.
Thursday 30 May: Graham Hoyland - Last hours on Everest
After making nine expeditions to Everest, Graham believes that he has finally worked out what happened to George Mallory and his companion Andrew Irvine when they disappeared on Everest in 1924. The mystery, which has intrigued historians and the general public alike, is the subject of his new book and this lecture. Signed copies will be available to buy.
SOUTH WEST VENUE: Upper Room of the Nova Scotia, Cumberland Basin, Hotwells, Bristol, BS1 6XJ
The Nova Scotia Hotel is a well-know Bristol landmark, situated at the western end of the Floating Harbour, with ample local parking and good beer. Lectures are normally on Tuesdays and start at 7.30pm. Click here for map
The SW Regional organisers are Tony Westcott, Adele Long and Chris Storie.. |
LONDON BUNKROOM
The club has a small bunkroom in the clubhouse basement containing four bunks for the use of members, aspirants and associates. There are no cooking facilities although a kettle is provided and there are restaurants and cafes nearby. The bunkroom is normally open except when the office is closed for the long Christmas and summer breaks. We cannot accept bookings from members for Friday and Saturday nights if they would be occupying the bunkhouse alone as the Club cannot provide emergency response over weekends.
There is no heating in the bunkhouse at night but there are a few blankets. Users must bring a sheet sleeping bag and are advised to bring a warm sleeping bag in winter.
Booking
Bookings should be made with the Club Administrator by e-mail or phone 0207 613 0755. If you do not get a reply, e-mail the Honorary Secretary as communications can sometimes go astray. The office is normally manned on Tuesdays and Thursdays (although not every week), and bookings need to be made in advance so that arrangements may be made to obtain keys and instructions. There is no charge for the bunkroom however an advance deposit of twenty pounds is required. Keys must be returned within five working days of use. Regular users may apply for a set to retain for their own use.
While in occupation, members are responsible for the security of the building and have an obligation to familiarise themselves with evacuation instructions and Health and Safety requirements. Users, particularly sleeping alone, must not suffer any hearing, visual, or mobility impairments that might impact on their ability to recognize an alarm signal and delay their exit from the building in an emergency.
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LECTURE ARCHIVES
LECTURES AND EVENTS 2012
LECTURES AND EVENTS 2011
LECTURES AND EVENTS 2010
LECTURES AND EVENTS 2009
LECTURES AND EVENTS 2008
LECTURES AND EVENTS 1996-2008
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