News

Anne Sauvy (Wilkinson)

We have been informed of the sad death on 9 July of Anne Sauvy (Wilkinson) who had been a member since 1975.  In addition to being a very accomplished alpine ice climber, Anne is best known as a prize winning mountain author. Her books of short stories - Flammes des Pierres - The Game of Mountain and Chance - Darkness and the Azure - were translated into multiple languages and won many literary awards. Anne also wrote 'Mountain Rescue Chamonix Mont Blanc, a highly acclaimed account of the PGHM rescue service.

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Alpine ClubCast 16 – 21st July at 19:30

An Evening with the American Alpine Club: Link Sar First Ascent

The Alpine ClubCasts head across the Atlantic for an evening with the AAC.  Graham Zimmerman, Mark Richey, and Steve Swenson (guest of honour at the Alpine Club dinner in 2017) join us to talk about their brilliant first ascent of Link Sar (7,041m) in the Eastern Karakoram in Pakistan, one of the last great Himalayan problems. 

Link Sar is situated in the Charakusa Valley and sits between the better known K6 and K7.  After Jon Griffith and Andy Houseman’s first ascent of the North West Face of Link Sar West in 2015, a route they named 'Fever Pitch’, and an attempt by Tom Ballard and Daniele Nardi on the North East face, the main peak was finally climbed by Steve Swenson, Graham Zimmerman, Chris Wright and Mark Richey in August 2019.  Steve Swenson, for whom this was the third attempt at the summit, wrote on Instagram after his 2017 attempt: 'It's a complex and dangerous mountain, and we didn't reach the top. But we made a significant effort to find a safe route that avoids the objective hazards. We plan to return so we can finish what we started.'  Join us on Tuesday to hear how they finally did just that.

As usual we will finish with a Q&A

Richard Brooke

News has reached us of the death of our member Richard Brooke who was born in 1927, a member in 1950 and ACG in 1953 (Retired).

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Alpine ClubCast 15 – 14th July at 19:30

Perfect Storm: First ascents on the forgotten side of Mont Blanc

Simon Richardson and Micha Rinn describe recent first ascents of the Diamond Ridge on the Grandes Jorasses and Perfect Storm on Mont Blanc. 

The talk will start with renowned Italian climbing historian Luca Signorelli outlining significant historical events on the Italian side of the range, and finish with a Q&A.

Alpine ClubCast 14 – 7th July at 19:30

The Six Great North Faces Part 2 - hosted by AC

The Rucksack Club and Alpine Club, two of Britain’s oldest mountaineering clubs, combine to take you up the classic six great north faces of the Alps, with accounts from 6 different members. As ticklists go this is short, sweet and an easy one to remember, but containing formidable and historic routes, it's not such an easy one to complete and has become the ticklist for the serious alpinist. It's the Matterhorn, Eiger, Grandes Jorasses; the Petit Dru, Cima Grande di Laveredo, and Piz Badile.  Tonight in part 2, the Alpine Club hosts, as we visit the Petit Dru, Cima Grande di Laveredo, and Piz Badile, with speakers James Thacker, Dominic Oughton and Ian Bryant. 

As usual, we will finish with a Q&A

 

Alpine ClubCast 13 – 30th June at 19:30

Alpine Rock to Remember

Nick Simons, Nicholas Smith and Richard Ive

After the very popular Alpine ClubCast4, which looked at some of the classic alpine ridges, tonight three Alpine Club members talk about some of Switzerland's most compelling alpine rock routes.

Nick Simons takes us up the 400m shining slab of the Canton Vaud, the Miroir d'Argentine, and Nicholas Smith talks about two lesser known ridges close to Saas, the Cresta del Lago Maggiore and the Jegigrat.  Finally, Richard Ive talks about one of the longest, hardest and finest ridge climbs in the whole of the Alps - the West Ridge of the Salbitschijen.

Aimed at whetting appetites for a future trip, the talks will be followed by a Q&A session.

 

Alpine ClubCast 12 – 23rd June at 19:30

The Six Great North Faces - Part 1

The Rucksack Club and Alpine Club, two of Britain’s oldest mountaineering clubs, combine to take you up the classic six great north faces of the Alps, with accounts from 6 different members. As ticklists go this is short, sweet and an easy one to remember, but containing formidable and historic routes, it's not such an easy one to complete and has become the ticklist for the serious alpinist. It's the Matterhorn, Grandes Jorasses, Eiger, the Petit Dru, Cima Grande di Laveredo, and Piz Badile.  Tonight in part 1, we are hosted by the Rucksack Club to celebrate what has become known as "the trilogy": Matterhorn, Grandes Jorasses, and the Eiger, with speakers Andy Kirkpatrick, Martin Cooper, Nick Wallis, Bill Deakin and Cec Rhodes.

As usual, we will finish with a Q&A.

 

Alpine ClubCast 11 – 16th June at 19:30

Artists of the Alpine Club

William Mitchell, John Colton, Ben Tibbetts

We are celebrating mountaineering artists past and present:

First, William Mitchell, an art dealer, climber, and writer, who has written the first book in English about Gabriel Loppé. As a prolific artist and mountaineer, Gabriel Loppé (1825-1913) was the first painter to have depicted what the French call ‘la haute montagne’.

We are joined by John Colton, who discovered the wild places of Yorkshire and a love of drawing from an early age. By the time he was twenty this had developed into serious mountaineering and painting combined. John has previously exhibited at the Alpine Club in 2013 and was described as the first exhibitor who actually draws whilst engaged on serious Alpine climbs. These include the Walker Spur on the Grandes Jorasses and the Innominata route on Monte Bianco.

Finally, we have Ben Tibbetts who last year published ‘Alpenglow’, the result of an obsessive project involving 10,000 hours of climbing, to reach all the highest summits of the Alps. It is a book full of meticulous historical research, inspiring photography, intricate and beautiful drawings, and writing that captures the essence of each route. We’re not clear yet about what Ben will show, but we can expect some of his drawings of the mountains and routes shown in Alpenglow, and the stories of the climbs that inspired them.

Followed by a Q&A

A reminder: 79 images from the AC Collection can be viewed here:

https://artuk.org/shop/featured-collections/the-alpine-club-collection.html

where you can order your own print, for which the Alpine Club receives payment


 

Mike Bullock

We are saddened by the news that Mike Bullock passed away on Friday 24th April. 

  

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Alpine ClubCast 10 – 9th June at 19:30

The Playground of Europe: Forbes, Tyndall and Le Blond

A celebration of three mountaineers of the Golden Age, with a scientific slant. Nanna Kaalund, Roland Jackson and Rachel Hewitt talk about the achievements of three great Victorians.

Followed by a Q&A.

AC Joint Alpine meet 2020 cancelled

The 2020 Summer Meet was planned for July in La Bérarde, in the heart of the Écrins. This site has excellent climbing and many people have fond memories of climbing and walking there.

The ongoing Covid-19 pandemic has cast a shadow over this, and we have watched events unfold.
The decision on the meet has been delayed as we have watched events, but we are now 6 weeks before the meet. Although there is some relaxation in France (and the UK), travel is still restricted, with severe limitation on entry into France. There will be quarantine measures in place until at least the week before the meet.

Alpine ClubCast 9 – 2nd June at 19:30

A Kangchenjunga Special

We will be marking the 65th anniversary of the first ascent of Kangchenjunga which, at 8586m, is the third highest mountain in the world.

Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner is the first woman to climb all the 8000m peaks without the use of supplementary oxygen.  She talks about her ascent of Kangchenjunga in 2006 via the South-West Ridge and is joined by Stevan Jackson, who led the second British ascent of the SW Face in 2000, 45 years after Joe Brown and George Band.  Mick Conefrey also joins us to talk about his new book on the subject, ‘The Last Great Mountain’.  Finally, Leo Dickinson will show some unseen footage of Joe Brown describing the final stages of the first ascent. 

Followed by a Q&A.

 

Alpine Club Caucasus Ice Meet 2021

Andrey Golovachev is arranging the Alpine Club Caucasus Ice Meet in the Midagrabin valley, North Ossetia, Russia from Saturday 6th February 2021 to Friday 12th February 2021. Accommodation is a newly built hotel with en-suite showers with twin, double and family rooms available. The approximate costs are £250-300 for the hotel accommodation, transfers and meals plus about £325 for return flights from London to Vladikavkaz (OGZ) plus about £50 for the Russian visa.
The hotel stands literally at the foothills of Mt Tbau 3,400m. Its 700m dolomite cliffs much resemble Italian Marmolada and there is a big potential for trad first ascents, provided sunny weather. In theory it is possible to climb Kazbek (5054) which requires a detour into Georgia via Verhny Lars official international border crossing. It takes about 5-7 extra days for acclimatization and the climb. The more technical route is graded about AD+ and is about 700 vertical meters of 50-55 degrees ice.

CLICK HERE for details

Alpine ClubCast 8 – 26th May at 19:30

Aiguille des Pélerins

In February 1975 Rab Carrington and Alan Rouse brought hard Scottish style climbing to the Alps with their winter ascent  of the Terray Rebuffat route on the Aiguille des Pélerins.  17 years later Andy Parkin and Mark Twight climbed the nearby ‘Beyond Good and Evil’ and in February this year Jon Bracey, Matt Helliker and Pete Whittaker added ‘Beyond Reason’. In their own way each of these ascents have set new standards for the sport.

Why has this corner of the Chamonix Aiguilles been a test bed for the best climbers of their generation? Find out on 26 May.

Alpine ClubCast 7 - 19th May at 19:30

“Medical dilemmas on long bivvies….severe headaches, black digits, the squits and more”.

BMC Honorary Medical advisor David Hillebrandt chairs a team of three mountaineering doctors - Chris Imray, Paul Richards and Jeremy Windsor - to share advice, experiences, and a Q&A.

Art UK

Alpine Club Paintings 

Following our agreement with Art UK 70 digital images from the Club’s painting collection are now displayed on the Art UK website.

Slovakia Meet, Chata Pri Zelenom Plese

6th - 13th March 2020

Words & Photographs by Alex Metcalfe.

Attendees: Mike De La Rue (organiser), Jonathan Bamber, Alex Metcalfe, Tom Davis-Merry, Mark Grist (guest), Tom Priestly (guest), John Venier, Ian Bryant.

Things did not start well for the AC Slovakia meet. A six hour delay gave members of the team ample time to repack & worry about baggage allowance whilst others went to see the sights and sounds of Luton. The team finally convened that night to fly out and meet the Johns the following day in Tatramanska Lomnica. 

Alpine ClubCast 6 – 12th May at 19:30

Nanga Parbat’s Mazeno Ridge 

Rick Allen and Sandy Allan talk about their traverse of the Mazeno Ridge in 2012, which was first attempted by Doug Scott back in 1992.  Scott Ellsworth will speak first on the history of climbing on Nanga Parbat.

Joe Brown

Members will be saddened to learn that our Honorary Member Joe Brown died yesterday,15 April, peacefully at home,   We send condolences to his family and all his friends.

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