The Alpine Club, the world’s first mountaineering club, was founded in 1857.  For over 150 years, members have been at the leading edge of worldwide mountaineering development and exploration. 

With membership, experienced and aspiring alpinists benefit from a varied meets programme, regional lectures with notable guest speakers, reduced rates at many alpine huts, opportunity to apply for grants to support expeditions, significant discounts at many UK retailers, extensive networking contacts, access to the AC Library and maps - and more! 

Join Us
 

News

John Monks

We are saddened to learn of the death of our member John Monks who died on 9th August. His funeral will take place at the catholic church in Nyon, Switzerland on 18th August.

Members would be welcome to send their tributes to This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. so that they can be posted on the website

 

AC Pembroke Meet 22-26 June 2017

Despite a few last minute cancellations, there was still a great turnout for the AC North Pembroke Meet based at Porthclais Farm, with 15 attendees either camping or campervan-ing at this spacious campsite, a three-minute sprint from the nearest climbing.

 

Gasherbrum IV East Face

For a brief report of a determined Alpine Club attempt on Gasherbrum IV East Face shut down by unprotectable rock band.

CLICK HERE

BMC Survey

Dear Member

Most of you will be aware that the BMC are undertaking a complete review of their governance and operations.  The Review will informed by the findings of a Member Survey.  This is now available to complete on the link below.  All 85,000+ members of the BMC are being asked to complete this survey. 

 As one of the Founding Clubs of the BMC, and the only Club in the UK fully dedicated to Alpinism and the ethics and ethos of mountaineering, your views are important.  I would encourage all members to take this opportunity to take part and make your views on the future role and governance of the BMC known: https://www.thebmc.co.uk/bmc-independent-organisational-review-member-survey

Kind regards 

 

John Porter

President

Walt Unsworth

It is with sadness that we have learnt that Walt Unsworth died on the 7th of June. He was born in 1928 and elected a Member in 1968. He also founded Cicerone Press. A full obituary will follow. Members would be welcome to send their tributes to This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.  so that they can be posted on the website.

“An Invitation to Seek Blessings from His Holiness The Dalai Lama”

Not the kind of invitation you receive every day. And one AC vice-president Stephen Goodwin was more than happy to accept.

The invitation came from the Himalayan Club. As part of its 90th anniversary celebrations, the HC had been fortunate enough to secure an audience with the Dalai Lama at Dharamsala, the Tibetan ‘capital in exile’ in Himachal Pradesh, India.

 

Young Alpinist Event, North Wales

The Alpine Club is working with the BMC to look at ways of helping young, talented British climbers to improve their skills and knowledge about expedition climbing.

As part of this process an evening meeting will be held at The Beacon Climbing Centre in North Wales on Saturday 15 July and all keen, young British alpinists are invited.

If you are an experienced, keen British alpinist under 35 years old and wish to attend then book a place on the event by emailing Nick Colton: This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it..

This is not an introductory programme for alpine climbing, but targeted at those who already have significant experience in Scottish winter climbing, summer and winter alpinism and perhaps expeditions. You don't need to be jogging up North Faces or climbing Scottish grade VIII to come along, just to be actively climbing in the mountains and be excited about expedition alpine climbing. If this sounds like you then please come along!

CLICK HERE for more details

Announcing the George Starkey Hut Maintenance Meet

This fantastic new AC membership benefit, with its excellent location in the eastern Lake District relies on members giving a little time to keep it in good shape.
So a joint ABM/AC Hut Maintenance Meet will take place on the weekend of 1-3rd September 2017. This meet will be organised by David Dunk and Marian Parsons (both AC members).
 
The idea is that bednights will be free to those willing to put in a day's work. There is no pressure to spend the whole weekend working: one day work and one day play is fine!
A free meal will be provided on the Saturday night.  Mike Parsons has his 75th birthday (1st Sep) and wants to celebrate a bit, so there will be some free wine too!
Jobs will be allocated according to what people feel they can do. 
 
Please book with Marian Parsons. (This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.)
 

John Ashburner

News has reached us that John Ashburner passed away on 5th May at Aintree Hospital, Liverpool, after a courageous 5-year battle with cancer of the larynx.

Members would be welcome to send their tributes to This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. so that they can be posted on the website.

 

Piolets d’Or 2017

This year the Piolets d’Or has set up its base-camp in Grenoble and, in a new format, is taking place in two parts. 

At the April event the 9th presentation of the Piolet d’Or Career Award was made to Jeff Lowe, the 8th Honorary AC Member recipient of this award, and the 2016 route awards were announced.  These will be presented at the second 2017 Piolets d’Or event in Grenoble in November during the Recontrés Cine Montagne Film Festival.

Montane Alpine Climbing Club Fund

Montane Alpine Climbing Club Fund ( MACCF) grants are now available for both official Alpine Club expeditions and independent private expeditions involving Alpine Club members.

Grants are usually given to expeditions attempting new routes or first ascents in high and / or hard to reach mountain ranges e.g. the Himalaya and Karakoram ranges. Grants will now not typically be given for the more well-travelled mountain areas in Central Alaska, Patagonia, or Greenland (unless the applicants are young members who are new to expeditionary climbing).  First ski ascents or descents are not usually supported. A new feature of the grants is that they may now be awarded to teams attempting early repeats of technical routes, especially on 7000m and 8000m mountains, and/or if they aim to improve on the style of earlier ascents. Preference is given to expeditions by students and younger members, and to those who have not previously received a grant.

Details of funding and the application process can be found HERE.

AC Meet - The Tatra Mountains 2018

The Tatra Mountains are situated on the border between Poland and Slovakia. During winter, they offer excellent alpine climbing – snow, ice and mixed routes, followed by sharp ridges that take you to spiky summits. Descents are often tricky. There is no problem with acclimatisation as the altitude is 2000 – 2600m.

Peter Mallalieu

It is with great sadness that we report the death on 6th March of Peter Mallalieu, Honorary Keeper Emeritus of the Club’s Paintings.  

Peter joined the Club in 1992 and in 1996 became Honorary Keeper of the Club’s Paintings. In 2007 he published ‘The Artists of the Alpine Club’, the first ever biographical study of Alpine Club artists

Peter Mallalieu's funeral was held at Banbury Crematorium on Friday 17 March at 2.00 pm.

Members would be welcome to send their tributes to This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. so that they can be posted on the website

UK Alpine Introductory Meet

2nd – 4th June 2017

George Starkey Hut, Patterdale, NE Lakes

Main Road (A592), Patterdale Village, Cumbria.  Nearest Postcode: CA11 0NN

Grid Ref – NY 396162 (OS Outdoor Leisure Map No 5)

Meet Details:

The AC are planning a training focused meet based in Patterdale (Lake District).  The focus will be on transferring skills to Aspirant Members and those who wish to improve their Alpine skills.

Informal training and guidance will be provided from more experienced members within the club (IFMGA guides and qualified instructors).

Topics will range from what to put into your rucksack to some basic Alpine mountaineering skills.

The Journeyman Alpine Club Meet 2017

Synopsis

The Alpine Club Journeyman Meet is aimed at Aspirant Members who have already climbed at least 7 to 10 PD routes in the Alps, and may have already participated in the Saas Fe Aspirant Meet in previous years.

The participants’ will be aiming to complete the 20 PD routes needed to become Full Members of the Alpine Club, and looking for sufficient climbing partners to make this happen

Location

The Journeyman will be held in Argentiere just outside of Chamonix with access to routes such as the Cosmiques Arete, Aiguille Rochefort and of course Mont Blanc. The meet will be held over two weeks in a self catering chalet with shared rooms in the village. A nearby campground offers an alternative to the chalet.

Programme

After a mandatory induction day with a local mountain guide covering safety and route finding, the participants will be encouraged to explore the mountains surrounding Chamonix with their climbing partners. During the first evening a member of the Chamonix Gendarmerie will also provide an overview of specific dangers of the region. The meet also aims to host a special guest to share in their experiences in expedition planning and route choice.

Dates

The meet will be held from 2nd September to 16th September after the main summer season to take advantage of quieter huts and mountains. It also gives members of the Saas Fe Aspirant Meet the opportunity to extend their stay in the Alps by one week.

The Golden and Silver Ages of Mountaineering 1855-1900

The AC Library’s Exhibition: 'The Golden and Silver Ages of Mountaineering 1855-1900' has opened at the Frenchay Village Museum.

The exhibition includes: photographs, first edition books, archives and artefacts highlighting the climbing partnerships between AC members and AC members' expeditions from the 1870s as far afield as the Caucasus and the Karakoram Himalayas and viewing is highly recommended.

  

(l-r) Hywel Lloyd, Barbara Grigor-Taylor and Tony Westcott setting up the exhibition at the Frenchay Village Museum. 

At: Frenchay Village Museum, 1 Begbrook Park, Winterbourne, Bristol BS16 1SZ

From: 7 January to 29 March 2017

Opening hours:  Saturday & Sunday, 2pm-5pm, and Wednesday, 1pm-4pm. 

Lecture:  9th March - A lecture on the exhibition, by ACL Chairman, Hywel Lloyd, at a venue near the museum DETAILS HERE

 

AC Expedition to the Bolivian Apolobamba 2017

Unfortunately as an insufficient number of people have applied for this expedition to make the trip viable we have reluctantly cancelled it.

3 June – 2 July

After a very successful expedition to Cordillera Real in 2015 the AC is planning to return to Bolivia in 2017, this time to the less well-known Apolobamba range. A four week expedition is proposed from Saturday 3 June to Sunday 2 July 2017 with a possible option for those short of time to return one week early. The plan is to split the expedition into two parts after a short period of acclimatisation near Lake Titicaca. The first and major part will be to visit the range north of Peluchuco, with options to climb a variety of peaks including Chaupi Orco (6,044m), the highest in the range. In the final week we shall travel south of Peluchuco, with Cololo (5,915m) as a primary objective. Because of the remoteness of this area we shall have limited support, although four porters will be available to help carry to the first base camp and a camp guard with knowledge of the area will remain at both base camps. There are no reliable maps or guides to the Apolobamba so what we actually do will be highly dependent on the prevailing conditions. The number of participants will be limited to 12, with the cost estimated to be ca £1,100 for all in-country expenses (accommodation, transport and assistance), plus flights to and from La Paz (ca £700). In addition, we will need to source all mountain food from the UK and pay for meals for the six nights while hostel/hotel based. If you are interested please contact Derek Buckle (This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.) as soon as possible.

Alan Lyall

We are saddened to learn of the death of Alan Lyall who died on Monday, 9th January,  He had been a member for 25 years, joining as a full member in 1991. Alan is known for his book The First Descent of the Matterhorn: A Bibliographical Guide to the 1865 Accident and its Aftermath.