The Alpine Club, the world’s first mountaineering club, was founded in 1857.  For over 150 years, members have been at the leading edge of worldwide mountaineering development and exploration. 

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Autumn is well established, giving big variations in temperature between night and day.  The bad weather at the start of the week resulted in about 10 cms of fresh, windblown snow at 3500m.  There was some snow down to 2000m and the N facing rocks were plastered, though this soon melted on the S facing slopes. Some snow/ice is beginning to reappear on the mixed routes.  However, in general, conditions remain very dry.

 

The vast majority of the huts, (both mid and high mountain,) are now closed. The Torino, Plan de l'Aiguille, Tré la Tête and Loriaz remain open.

The only lifts open are la Flégère, 1st stage of the Aiguille du Midi (to Plan de l'Aiguille) and the Skyway Monte Bianco (Italy).

 

There is not a lot activity in the high mountain, (please do not hold back in reporting your experiences to Chamoniarde!)

The Tour sector is popular, especially the normal route on the Aig du Tour. Many people are using the winter room at the Albert 1er, which was full last weekend.  Consider arriving early or take bivouac gear with you.  

From the Punta Helbronner, the Dent du Géant and the traverses of the Marbrées and the Aiguilles d'Entrèves are being done regularly.  The rocks are dry on the Tacul satellites.  

Mont Blanc by the Goûter: avoid going up by the Rognes (bad snow conditions). Otherwise the route is virtually dry as far as the Gouter hut, with a good track above.

The rock climbing continues in the Aig Rouges, (especially near the Index), Foresee good footwear, as there can be some snow on the approaches/descents.  

For hikers:  the paths from Flegere to Lac Blanc are open. Work on the Montenvers railway is resulting in numerous rock falls and the paths nearby have been officially closed by council order. The only way to reach the Mer de Glace is by the Grand Balcon Nord from either Plan de l'Aiguille or Chamonix via the alpage de Blaitière.

A thin cover of snow can be present on the paths above 2200 / 2300m but it does not present a problem.