An update just before the weekend. As you will have noticed it has been very hot during the day recently and freezing levels have been variable. The conditions on the snow/mixed routes and glacier approaches have changed rapidly. Also, there is a risk of afternoon/evening storms for the longer routes. The best option is to stick to the beautiful Chamonix granite!
- the Aiguille du Chardonnet is no longer in condition, lots of ice on the descent route.
- glacier approaches OK, e.g. for the Table ridge integral, normal routes on the Aiguille du Tour, Tête Blanche and Petite Fouche.
- rock routes like the Dorées traverse and Purtscheller S ridge are OK.
- Petite Verte : A lot of ice, not for beginners
- the bergschrund for the Col des Grands Montets can still be crossed on the left but is very exposed to stone fall. A rope sling is in place on the true right bank (less exposed) to make a 15m abseil.
- The Aiguille d'Argentière is no longer in condition (Flèche Rousse, Glacier du Milieu). There has been a lot of stonefall on the N faces making the routes here dangerous.
- only the rock climbs or the Rabouin ridge are to be recommended
Talèfre / Charpoua Sector
- Drus Traverse: it takes time to find the right route for the glacier.
- Pointe Isabella (bergschund and crevasses are opening up beneath the seracs but no ice on the ridge), Courtes traverse (some snow on the ascent, ridge and descent dry), and the Droites “true” normal route (the traverse under the Droites col very dry) remain feasible.
- no comment for the Moine, Nonne, Évêque
- Aiguille Verte: Moine ridge, (bergschrund goes on the far left, 30m abseil), and Grand Montets ridge (the gullies between the Pointes are very dry) are in condition.
Envers des Aiguilles
The bergschrund for the République and Grépon/Mer de Glace is awkward but still passable, check it the night before and have 2 technical axes. The Nantillons glacier descent is also complicated (e.g.25m abseil from a flake on the true left bank at a crevasse) but OK for experienced parties.
Aiguille du Midi Sector
- The Frendo is very dry and no longer in condition.
- Midi Plan: conditions have deterioated, (lots of ice and poor quality, sandy rock.
- Vallée Blanche traverse: The crevasses are opening up, the route through changes every day.
- Gervasutti Pillar: the bergschund is still passable, (left), but stonefall has been reported.
- Mont-Blanc by the 3 Monts : popular (there and back), several ice sections e.g. at the Col du Mont Maudit, (2 axes recommended).
Mont Blanc by the Gôuter
The access restrictions to the Goûter hut have been extended.
A rockfall has destroyed the cable across the Grand Couloir, so is not protectable.
Dômes de Miage / Aiguille de Bionnassay
The ridge is popular. It is very sharp, (need to progress on one side or the other. There is ice at the Piton des Italiens. No problems for the glacier approach to the hut. Lancherons ridge is completely snow free.
Mont Blanc via Aiguilles Grises
Still in condition. There is a new phone number for the hut +39 0165 885 101. (N.B the “0” is necessary in Italy).
- Glacier approach to the Eccles still OK.
- the bergschrund for the Red Pillars no longer passable.
- Innominata Ridge: very dry, stonefall reported.
Torino Hut Sector
- Kuffner : very dry, being done every day, stonefall reported.
- Parties still doing the Diable ridge: the bergschrund remains passable (on the right), approach gully dry, (stonefall especially from other parties), rock snow free.
- No problems reported for the bergschrunds on the Satelitte rock routes, (if you have information, please use the Chamoniarde online route book).
Apparently,there are fixed ropes at the bergscrunds for the Voie des Suisses (Grand Capucin) and Lifting du Roi, ( Roi de Siam).
- Dent du Géant : the approach to the Salle à Manger is dry, afternoon stone fall reported, otherwise good conditions for the Rochefort arete.
- Jorasses traverse is been done regularly in generally good conditions Conditions on the glacier decent are deteriorating.
- Walker Spur still in good condition, the Red Chimneys gradually drying.
- Jorasses traverse still in good condition, some ice near the Point Walker
- descent by the normal route OK despite limited re-freezing.
Miscellaneous Info :
There is a new Via Ferrata at the St Gervais Thermal Park. It is not suitable for beginners, 1st part AD+, 2nd part TD/TD+.
A bolt is missing onthe first pitch Piano Forte (Tour des Crochues) with serious consequences in case of a fall.