A mixed bag of information from the latest reports received by Chamoniarde. Be warned, despite the clear nights the slopes facing south or sheltered from the wind rapidly heat up in the warm weather. For some routes, it is best to set off early from a hut than take the first lift.
Argentiere: Very popular for ski touring. For alpinists, the Couturier has a section of about 60m of ice. The Courtes NNE is OK. The Austrian route was done on Sunday with good snow, ski descent by the Cordier (Courtes). The Swiss route does not look to be well formed. The Petit Viking also is not properly formed. There was an attempt on the Charlet Couturier gully.
Albert 1er Sector: the normal route and the Table Gully on the Tour have been done. Likewise, the Migot spur, but the Chardonnet gullies are dry
Couvercle: The Pointe Isabelle was done, and there was activity in the Whymper Couloir. (N.B. the hut telephone is 06.87.99.01.66)
Requin: The Brèche Puiseux and the Col du Tacul, (descending the Capucins glacier) are popular. The gullies « Ice is nice » and, « Sorenson Eastman » have been climbed: ice not in good condition and the exit awkward!
Cosmiques: The Chéré is being climbed each day but the ice is not good. The Contamine Négri was climbed this morning (17/04), take care with holes hidden by the new snow. Descent on ski by the Gervusutti Couloir, (jumped the bergschrund.) A party tracked Mont-Blanc du Tacul this morning, (17/04). The Eugster diagonal on the N face of the Aig du Midi has been climbed, the start being fairly dry, then snow.
Grands Mulets: Good conditions up to the hut. At the moment Mont Blanc is being done by the Petit and Grand Plateau. The N face has been skied. The N ridge of the Dôme (which is going to be attempted tomorrow, 18/04) requires two axes, ice screws and needs pitching on the ice sections. From the Plan de l’Aiguille take the lower track to cross the Pélerins glacier.
Conscrits: There is about 1h30 of walking from Cugnon, before using skis. It is recommended to cross the Mauvais Pas early in the day. Good conditions for the Dômes de Miage and the descent of the Armancette glacier to just below the Armancette lake. The Aiguille de la Bérangère has been done there and back from the hut. The Col des Glaciers and Mont Tondu has also seen activity.