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The very cold conditions at the start of the week gave way to warmer weather together with strong winds and a couple of centimetres of new snow.

On Friday 2nd March about 20cms of fresh snow fell at 2000 / 2500m and 40cms at the Aig du Midi. The wind is still present above 2000m, causing snow drifts.

The new information received since the last update:

Ski touring remains the main activity, with a good cover of snow, though the conditions are now very variable.


Brèche Puiseux was in good condition on 26-02.   There is a rope in place at the col.  
Two 60m abseils are necessary to descend from the Col du Tacul to the Capucin glacier.


Information on other activities at altitude are anecdotal.

The Aiguille Verte was climbed on 27-02, up the Couturier and down the Whymper.  More information in the OHM route book , in which you are invited to record your own outings.

The gullies remain very dry.  However, the Pellissier on the Pointes Lachenal was done on 27-02, friable ice at the start then sections of dry.  Another party was on M6 Solar, where the conditions were not good.

Claire Chazal was done om 25/02, no further information.  


The Valley Blanche is OK but take care as the recent snow will have hidden some of the crevasses.  It is still possible to ski to Chamonix, with only a couple of walking sections on the descent from Les Mottets.


Cogne remains popular for ice climbing, the options being limited in the Chamonix valley.

On the Argentière true left bank, (rive gauche), Déferlante is OK but Mini Couloir is “grise mine”, (rock hard grey ice).
The ice climbing venue at Bérard is OK.


The snow on Friday will have improved conditions for snow shoeing.  A lot of the trails had become very icy, better suited to crampons than snow shoes!  


The Cosmiques hut is now open.  The Simond bivouac is no longer accessible.

The Argentière hut should open on 9th March, the Albert 1er on 17th March and the Grands Mulets on 27th March, to be confirmed, depending on the weather.

Link to the latest   B.E.R.A.