Here is the latest information, following the recent, mixed weather.
It snowed down to about 2500m at the end of last week but, with the exception of a few shaded areas high up, the rock is now dry again.
The recent snowfall has temporarily improved conditions for some of the snow and mixed routes but with very warm weather, the bare ice is reappearing again. This process will be accelerated over the next few days: early starts and extra care are needed!
- Albert 1er : No problems for the Aiguille du Tour with the exception of the Table Couloir, which has been out of condition for some time now. Conditions OK at the moment for the Cols du Pissoir and Midi des Grands The normal routes on the Tête Blanche and Petite Fourche are also OK but be aware the snow bridges on the approach are now weak.
Concerning the Chardonnet, only the Forbes Ridge has been done and not in good conditions, (recent serac fall at the start and ice on the route). 2 x 60m ropes are useful for the descent of the normal route and there is a wide crevasse blocking the way, (though possible to get around for the moment.)
- Argentière : The normal route on the Petite Verte was done in good condition on 04/07. Cols du Tour Noir and Argentière are tracked. Good, mixed conditions for the Flèche Rousse Ridge. There is a lot of ice on the Glacier du Milieu, (a good cramponning technique needed.) The bergschrund goes on the true left bank, (right looking upwards,) then traverse to the true right side, (thin snow bridge.) The rock routes near the hut are in good condition.
- La Charpoua : The rock has dried quickly and parties left today (05/07) for “Sale Athée” and the “Contamine” on the Evèque. There is still some snow left high up but not enough to cause problems and the traverse of the Drus looks feasible.
- Le Couvercle : The rocks near the hut are dry but the Moine Ridge on the Verte still has too much snow. The Whymper Couloir is not at all feasible but the traverse of the Courtes, (there and back) should be possible, (good ability and early start essential). The Point Isabelle is very awkward and with a wide bergschrund.
- Leschaux : The rocks near the hut are dry but the Grandes Jorasses still has too much snow.
- Envers des Aiguilles : Parties climbing everywhere on dry rock. The bergschrund for the “Subtilité Dulférienne” is no longer possible and that for the “Soleil a rendez-vous avec la Lune” is awkward.
- Requin : Good conditions for rock climbing near the hut. Continuing up the Valley Blanche still possible, though care needed with weak snow bridges.
- Torino : The Dent du Géant is in good condition but the Rochefort Arete is narrow and pointed and the approach is becoming dry. Parties on the traverses of the Aiguilles d’Entrèves and Marbrées, the Kuffner and the Aiguilles du Diable, no further information. With the hot weather, there is a stone fall danger, especially around the Tour Ronde. Rock climbing virtually everywhere in the Cirque Maudit and on the Tacul satellites.
- Cosmiques : Rock climbs in condition. Also, the Contamine Negri and Mazeaud have been done, no further information. The Pointes Lachenal traverse is back in condition. The Tacul and Maudit are tracked, no further information. The Midi-Plan Arete, (to the Aig du Plan, there and back,) was done today, (05/07) in generally good conditions, though ice is beginning to reappear in some places.
- Grands Mulets : The traverse of the Pèlerins glacier from the Plan de l’Aiguille is done at the level of the buvette, (way markers) and not by following the path marked on the IGN map. After the traverse, the moraine goes OK at the level of the “point jaune”, (yellow marker?). Glacier des Bossons and Jonction are OK, (way markers). Take care below the hut as the snow bridges are becoming weaker. Good conditions at the moment for the Nord du Dôme ridge.
- Goûter : The Mont Blanc normal route is basically in good condition but care needed crossing the Grand Couloir. It is essential to move quickly and to cross as early as possible, (both on the up and the down.)
- Durier : The Bionnassay Ridge is in good condition.
- Conscrits : The Dômes de Miage traverse is still feasible despite a very narrow and pointed section and ice appearing some areas. No problems for the Bérangère.
- Gonella : The normal Italian route up Mont Blanc is in good condition. The latest information for the Tournette Spur is that it is not in condition.
- Monzino : Parties left today (05/07) for the Peuterey, Innominata Integrals and the Brouillard Ridge, no further information. No special problems for the approaches to the Eccles bivouac and the Pilier Rouge du Brouillard.
A reminder that all the paths between the Floria and Flégère are closed until 28th July because of works, (copy of the legal decision available on the Chamoniarde site.)
There has been a land slip below the Aiguille Pourrie which crossed the South Grand Balcon path. This area remains unstable, so do not linger here. Crampons are no longer needed for the normal way up Mont Buet but there are still snow patches so good hiking boots and walking poles are essential.